Latin American Metropolises: An Urban Odyssey
I have written extensively on Medium about my experiences in Mexico City, a sprawling, confounding, terrifying and exhilarating urban jungle that I have called home for 7 years. As much as this contaminated and culturally fertile beast has shaped my adult life, in recent times, no doubt accelerated by the pandemic lockdowns, a burning desire has lit within me to travel throughout Latin America.
This itch was lightly scratched by a weeklong trip to Peru in July, but now it has fully kicked into overdrive as I have embarked on a 3 month-long excursion of South America, hitting Chile, Argentina, Uruguay, and that enormous mini-continent, Brazil.
When one thinks of many of these places, what comes to mind are the lush beaches, waterfalls, tropical rainforests and mountain getaways. By the end of my adventure, I will have seen both sides of the Patagonia, beaches and islands, mountain towns and deserts, colonial villages and cascading waterfalls. Yet simultaneously I will also have seen some of the most imposing and notorious urban areas in the Western Hemisphere; I will have danced the tango in the streets of Buenos Aires and listened to samba and drunk too many caipirinhas at bars in São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro. I will have gone paragliding over the coast of Lima and ascended the hills overlooking Santiago towards the summit.
Rio and Buenos Aires harbor the most mystique in the popular imagination, even as the crime and poverty in both (but especially the former) have scared away many potential visitors. This post will look in detail at 5 major South American cities, exploring all the nooks and crannies.
Lima
Lima is not only the capital of Peru but by far its largest city, as well as being the economic, cultural and political capital. Nevertheless, it´s safe to say that for many travelers, it is a mere stopover, a required entry to the South American nation but just a blip on the way to Cusco and Machu Picchu. Part of this has to do with the fact that there are few cultural landmarks or coherent images that one can tie to the Peruvian capital. There´s no Christ statue or Angel monument, no Mafalda sitting on the bench or a clutch of the snow-capped Andes lurking in the background.
In fact, Lima does have eye-catching sights, but it is ultimately an odd mish-mash of contradictory styles. Its historic center, with decaying but gorgeous old buildings, an array of museums, overflowing street stands and markets, seems straight out of Mexico City. Its coastline, concentrated on the hip barrios of Miraflores and Barranco, is like a Rio Jr, while the upscale bars and chain stores in these same districts could be in San Francisco or Chicago. It doesn´t help that in a city of 10 million people, there´s less public transit than in Los Angeles; and the drivers are even more reckless.
There´s no one distinct vibe that Lima offers, but for adventurous city lovers, there´s a lot to offer. The museums are fascinating and often free, the food, especially from the sea, is affordable and delicious, the coast is alluring, the Pisco bars are endlessly entertaining. Does it match the pure overwhelming frenzy of DF or the European shimmer of BA? Absolutely not, but it indeed is worth a few days out of your time.
I arrived to Lima in the late afternoon, glimpsing a misty, chilly city with slightly deteriorating but appealing colonial buildings and small yet elaborate parks. I was staying in the heart of el centro; far away from the glamour of Miraflores but closer to the authenticity of the real Lima. Nearby are fondas with fresh and cheap local eats, fascinating museums, parks and winding avenues.
After years walking the traffic-clogged streets of Mexico City, I thought Lima would be a walk in the park. Shockingly, as soon I attempted to cross the street in the heart of downtown, I feared for my life. The cars whisk pass pedestrians at an alarming rate, while crosswalks are practically nil. I trusted in the safety by numbers rule, and waited for a plethora of fellow walkers to join me before I crossed the street. Once I reached the pedestrian-friendly path towards el centro and the Plaza de Armas, I felt more at ease. The avenue heading towards the heart of the Peruvian capital are lined with sports bars and casinos, coffee shops and sandwich and cerveza cafés, street stands hawking coffee and drinkable avena, pan dulce y con pollo.
The area just before the Plaza boasts stunning, elegant, blindingly white buildings that stand in striking contrast to the slightly run-down, graffiti-strewn edificios common in the downtown area. The iconic Plaza de Armas is relatively simple in comparison, but its adjoining streets offer an array of pisco bars, cafes, tabernas, and tourist shops that are both tacky and charming. In the night it lights up, illuminating the central square in all its colonial, centuries-old glory.
Akin to Mexico City, the most well-known barrios outside the downtown are strikingly modern and less overtly Latino; they easily could reside in Brooklyn or Los Angeles, Boston or Minneapolis, as they do in Peru. In Mexico these hipster enclaves are Condesa and Roma; in Lima, the equivalents are Miraflores and Barranco. Meanwhile, the ritzy, business oriented Polanco in CDMX finds its Liman equivalent in San Isidro. The advantages of the Liman versions, primarily, are their coastal location. I found little to savor in the glass and steel, McDonalds saturated Miraflores, until I descended the winding steps to the sea. For adrenaline junkies, the experience of paragliding over the cliffs of the coastal district is simply unforgettable.
The nearby Barranco has also has some charm due to its former status as a fishing village, but now is awash in overpriced hipster bars right out of Miami Beach. If you look even vaguely gringo, they will start speaking to you in broken English, and after a while the generic hipster vibes seem pale indeed compared to the majesty of Peruvian flute music.
On that note, one of the true highlights of Lima is a live-music spectacle called peña; combining traditional, indigenous music played live by a rapturous band accompanied by folkloric dancers, along with a full meal and drinks, it´s like a Las Vegas dinner show stripped of pomp and filled with authentic local flavor. As the band exhorted all to come out and dance (while fully masked of course), there were few places I´d rather be on this earth.
Santiago-
Like Lima, Santiago is seen more as a stopping-off point before going off to the Patagonia, the majestic North or to go skiing in the Andes. Santiago does not have obvious sights, but when compared to Lima, it is more relaxed, organized and enjoyable. It is not a Frankenstein monster of a city but its own animal; European yes, but more a tranquil Stockholm or Copenhagen (with 7 million people) than a booming London or Paris. There is a robust rock scene, nightlife and heated politics galore, as well as brutal traffic and corresponding pollution. Yet it overall seems to be slower-paced and more sophisticated, for better or worse, than Lima or Mexico City. This aspect could be considered boring to some, while it might be a breath of (not so fresh) air for others.
One thing for sure is that few cities are so close to nature, as exemplified by the breathtaking views of the Andes seen on almost every corner of the capital. As a result, the locals seem to relish the great outdoors, constantly jogging and biking through the Santiago streets. There are two iconic parks with cerros, or hills, offering unbeatable views. One is smaller and can be completed easily, Cerro Santa Lucía; while the more iconic San Cristobal is worth the long hike; the views are astounding, while the summit is rewarded with an elegant, religious themed statue to rival the Jesus of Rio.
The bar scene might seem subdued when compared to Mexico City, but there are indeed a variety of places to get one´s buzz on. While the quality of beers varies, the king is the uva (grape). As well as exquisite wine, pisco (although not quite as delicious as the Peruvian version) is a refreshing cocktail served up in an array of styles, while there also are deceptively sweet wine cocktails such as the explosive Terremoto (earthquake). For those who prefer bars with a unique atmosphere, La Piojera is a must. Boasting traditional wine-based cocktails and draft beer at reasonable prices, the bar truly excels in its ambience; a tavern out of another century, complete with colorful locals, soccer game broadcasts, wide, communal tables, and folkloric live music on the weekends. Any visit to el centro de Santiago is incomplete without a drink-or two- at La Piojera.
São Paulo
In the popular imagination, Rio de Janeiro is the shimmering city by the beach, filled with iconic sites (we´ll get to it soon). São Paulo is a statistic- most populous city in South America, one of the biggest cities in the Western hemisphere, the financial capital of Latin America along with Mexico City. Towering, endless concrete skyscrapers line the city, in contrast to the sun, fun and mountains that line Rio. However, I chose São Paulo as my base in Brazil, both due its geographic status as a bridge between north and south, as well as the fact that, despite some rough areas, it is not as overall dangerous (especially for foreigners) as Rio de Janeiro.
Brazil tends to be painted with a broad brush as dangerous, but after several days in Sao Paulo, I did not feel any more at risk than in Mexico City; and possibly even less so. The two cities are often compared, and while there are obvious similarities, the vibes are distinct. São Paulo is a Latin American metropolis through and through, with street food stands, bustling markets, giant cathedrals and people dancing and drinking in the street. But in its colorful buildings and urban art and winding, taxing hills, and surprisingly large Japanese population, I was reminded of San Francisco; in its abundance of skyscrapers, Jewish influence and pizzerias, I was reminded of New York. In many, confounding ways, São Paulo is like a mix between a Latin American city and a US metropolis, combining the best and worst of both in an unwieldy yet undoubtedly fascinating package.
It´s not as pretty and instantly iconic as Rio or Buenos Aires, and it lacks the diversity of terrain that Mexico City can boast; but it´s a must visit destination nonetheless. While the neighborhoods are not as visually varied as CDMX, there is a far greater diversity than the Mexican capital. I sometimes feel that, for all its virtues, CDMX cannot be considered a truly global city until it becomes more diverse. It is the capital of Mexican, and to an extent, Latino culture; but for a city of its size, it´s not a true international city. During recent years, especially during the pandemic, gringos working as nomads have amped up the expat population. Yet in a city of 20 million, it is almost impossible to find a decent bagel, pizza, fried rice, falafel, etc. Its immigrant population is shockingly lacking; this is a city where its tiny Chinatown is mostly populated by Mexicans.
São Paulo, conversely, is known for its Japanese, Israeli, and Italian food, and boasts multiple immigrant museums. If not quite on the level of London or New York, it is still arguably the most international city in Latin America.
This is not to say that it is not an authentically Brazilian experience; the bars blasting samba on Sundays on Vila Magdalena beg to differ; but it offers more of a worldly feel than a distinctly Brazilian ambience.
Its numerous museums; from the aforementioned Immigration spotlights to focuses on the Portuguese language, colonial art and that Brazilian obsession, futebol, all shine a light on national heritage. The winding, hilly avenues are abound with ¨lanchonettes¨; local cafeteria style restaurants with big, cheap lunches, assorted Brazilian pastries and snacks, coffee and big ice-cold liters of beer.
Beer and coffee- admittedly two of my favorite beverages besides water- and Brazilians love ém. In striking contrast to Chile, a country that shockingly serves Nescafe packets with hot water at a coffee shop (!), Brazil has a coffee-heavy culture. Many restaurants will serve you free espresso(s) at the end of the meal. One caveat; Brazilians love their coffee sweetened; in my case, if I´m in the mood for a mocha (the hot chocolate here is amazing) that´s one thing, but I don´t like being served coffee sinking in sugar; you must ask ¨sem acucar¨¨or even the espresso shots could be sweet. Ironically, the various ¨bolos¨¨(cakes) served alongside are relatively unsweet; light hints of corn or carrot rather than chocolate or cream-dunked monstrosities.
More common is the omnipresent ¨pão de queijo¨ (cheese bread), a must with coffee at breakfast, or truly any time of day.
Rio De Janeiro-Cidade Maravillosa- e Horrivél
Ït was the best of times, it was the worst of times,¨ begins Charles Dickens in ´´A Tale of Two Cities¨,¨ which can sum up my roughly weeklong sojourn in Rio de Janeiro and nearby beach towns. I had one of the best days of my life soaking up the waves at Ipanema and trekking up the coast, with the iconic Christ statue in the background, while I also came as close to true, life-threatening danger as I ever have in my 32 years.. and 7 years in Latin America. I left Rio with my valuables and body intact (although my cell phone was to be stolen a few days later in São Paulo), but my psyche a little shaken.
The trip did not start well, which never helps. Although a flight would have been easier, of course, domestic flights can be pricey in Brazil (they´re oddly much more affordable in otherwise-expensive Chile) so I opted for a 6-ish hour bus ride to Rio. Unfortunately, the combination of the relentless rain and an apparent highway accident led to a more than 9 hour, endless ride in ugly, cloudy weather. By the time I arrived atthe Rio bus terminal, amongst a frenzy of aggressive taxi drivers and confused tourists, I was half-dead, with my legs a mass of jelly. I quickly got an Uber, but as we reached my apparent destination, I realized that I had to climb up steep, rocky hills with my suitcase in tow to find my hostel- in the rain. Despite my Portuguese- solid when comfortable, a bit uneven when nervous- I was able to reach my destination. Despite the rain and fog obscuring the iconic coastal sights, the truly marvelous nature of the Rio port and sky shone through as a saving grace.
I slept like a baby and the next day I decided to grin and bear it, pulling out my umbrella and on to the first stop of the day- the Maracana stadium tour, where the iconic Flamengo football club of Rio plays. The tour was self guided and rather short, but offered a glimpse into one of Brazilian culture´s biggest obsessions. Like a true tourist, I immediately took an Uber to the famed staircase in the Santa Teresa neighborhood to take an obligatory rain selfie.
I wandered through the colonial-style neighborhood, with old-fashioned eateries and bars interspersed with crumbling old buildings. It felt a world away from São Paulo, and not necessarily in a good sense. Despite the cloudy, drizzly weather, I immediately had the desire to see arguably the most iconic site in Rio, a monument to rival the Colisseum- The Christ the Redeemer. I knew a sunny day would be ideal, but as the next several days predicted rain, I decided to just get it over with. I took an Uber, as we ascended through winding roads. Just as we reached the entrance, the rain really started to come down.
Menacing-looking figured sized me up as an obvious tourist, as a local took me to the ticket booth- roughly 10 USD to see the famous monument. He then charged me an inexplicable 10 dollars for his services, as I took another winding van.
To say the monument was a disappointment was an understatement. The rain was not a problem; the view of the city was obscured, but I could see the statue relatively clearly. But that was it; you climb the steps, see the statue, which looks less impressive up close than from afar — and that´s it.
I honestly suggest not going; I was much more elated by seeing the statue in the distance on a sunny day at the beach than visiting it up close… and paying too much to boot.
The next day, which was a bit cloudy but didn´t rain, I decided to see the almost equally renowned Pão de Acucar- which is indeed worth the hype. The cable cars take you to two majestic mountains with wonderful views of the city below- with bars, restaurants, a winding forest and a little cable car museum. One can easily spend 2 hours or more, and it is a must see.
After a few days in Rio, I began to relax a bit; I didn´t feel as on-edge or in danger as I had expected. That all changed when I decided to take a bus to Cabo Frio, a relaxed beach town about 2 hours away that had a food and music festival on a Sunday. Due to the awkward location of my hostel, I had to take a van down to the main street- with my suitcase in tow. As I waited for my uber inside a coffee shop, I saw a car parked outside.. but with different plates. A hulking apparent driver noticed my interest- and my bags- and insisted we go to the airport. As I evasively told him no, he suddenly chased after me, smacked me and threw my suitcase across the street. I feared for my life, screaming for the police and help in my imperfect Portuguese, as the mostly female staff at the coffee shop seemed unable to react.
My final day in Rio was spent with a local traversing the beaches, cerveja gelada in tow and a new relaxed state of mind to erase the dangers that came before.
Buenos Aires: The Paris of South America? Or Its Own Animal?
Long before I set foot in Mexico and seriously became interested in Latin American culture, Buenos Aires was an extremely appealing city. While Mexico City and Bogotá, fairly or not, called to mind images of drugs and chaos, Buenos Aires, for decades now, has been the sophisticated, European Latin American city; the one with tango in the streets, cortes de meat and pasta, wine and mate, famous writers and good vibes. Its the most romantic and well-thought-of Latin American metropolis, even though Argentina as a whole, and arguably the capital especially, has been hit by economic troubles for many years now.
After my experience in Brazil, Buenos Aires seemed quite safe- maybe possibly a bit less so than Santiago, but it makes up for it with its liveliness. Yes, on the surface, BA does seem like a European capital; a mix of Paris, Madrid and Rome, while the bustle seems derived from NYC. Yet it is undoubtedly a Latin city too; while Santiago was a tad too placid for my liking, Buenos Aires has the relaxed air of Europe while still maintaining that peculiar Latino energy. My first day bore witness to people dancing tango in the park, and tango is as omnipresent, if not more so, as flutes in Peru, mariachis in Mexico, or samba in Brazil.
My lodging was relatively far from the glamour of Palermo, but close to a lot of areas of the city that to me ring more authentic. I stayed right near La Boca, a barrio that, while touristy, is also notorious for being a no-go zone at night. It is true that all the spectacle is during the day; the street vendors, tango dancers and more all shut down at sundown. But the bright, popping colors and carnival atmosphere are not replicated anywhere else in the city, and the people are arguably more welcoming than other more posh districts.
A relatively short walk away is the arching, hilly Parque Lezama, which is essentially the gateway to el centro. Nearby beckons the enchanting, beguiling San Telmo; boasting cobblestone streets, winding avenues and a variety of markets, bookstores, cafes, and bars, one can spend quite a lot of time aimlessly perusing this neighborhood. Walking further ahead, the city suddenly loses this intimacy and the true size of BA makes itself clear. The famed Plaza de Mayo is always full of people, and the day I arrived there was a huge protest; which I soon learned was to be a common sight. Walking towards the periphery, there is the uber-touristy Puerto Madero. Although it is a rather sad excuse for a port, the muddy river makes up for its shabby appearance through the elegant buildings and boats on top of it. A sunny day is an ideal moment to enjoy this side of the metropolis.
In general, Buenos Aires can be appear to be an odd mixture of a slightly run-down Manhattan, a Latino Paris, and its own colorful, tango-drenched essence that can be only found in one of the great cities of the world- and certainly an unmissable highlight of Latin America.
